How to Build a DIY Side Table With Storage (Free Plans)

Store-bought side tables with drawers routinely run $200–$400, and the storage is usually an afterthought. You can build this side table with storage yourself for a fraction of that cost using basic pocket-hole joinery and standard lumber.The finished piece gives you a full drawer for blankets, remotes, or games, plus an open shelf for books and decor.

This build uses knotty alder and a Kreg Jig, but you can swap in pine, oak, or poplar depending on your budget and the look you’re going for. Below is the full step-by-step tutorial, along with the tools and materials you’ll need to get started. You can also find the free plans for this project on the Kreg Tool website.

*note: This post contains affiliate links. Should you purchase an item from one of these links, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.

Why Build Your Own Side Table Instead of Buying One

Building your own furniture isn’t just about saving money upfront — though that’s a big part of it. Here’s what you get that you don’t with retail furniture:

• Lower cost overall. A DIY build typically costs 50-70% less than a comparable retail piece, even after buying tools you don’t already own.
• Easy repairs. If a drawer front cracks or a door gets kicked in (it happens), you can fix or replace the exact piece instead of hunting for a discontinued replacement part.
• Custom sizing. You control the dimensions, so the table actually fits your space instead of the other way around.
• Freedom to change your mind. If your style shifts in a few years, you haven’t sunk hundreds of dollars into a piece you’re stuck with.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

• Table saw or circular saw
• Kreg Jig (pocket-hole jig)
• Kreg drawer slide jig
• Kreg cabinet hardware jig
• Miter saw
• Drill with 3/16″ and 1/16″ drill bits, plus a 3/4″ Forstner bit
• Wood glue and clamps
• Knotty alder (or your preferred lumber), rough-cut and dimensional
• 1/4″ plywood for drawer bottoms
• Drawer slides and a drawer handle/pull
• Desktop (tabletop) fasteners
• 1 1/4″ and 2 1/2″ pocket screws, 1 1/4″ wood screws
• 3/4″ narrow crown staples or brad nails
• Epoxy and gray pigment powder (optional, for filling knots)

Watch The YouTube Video

Below you will find the step by step photo tutorials, but I also put together a full YouTube video of the entire build to help answer any additional questions or watch how a step was completed.

Step-by-Step: How to Build a Side Table With Storage

1. Prep Your Lumber

If you’re using rough-cut lumber like knotty alder, mill it down to standard dimensional sizing first (a 2×2 finishes at 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″, for example). Knotty wood will have gaps you’ll want to address before assembly — fill any large knots with tinted epoxy for a clean, finished look.

2. Build the Side Panels and Shelf

Cut all boards to the dimensions in your plans, then drill 3/4″ pocket holes into each piece. Glue and clamp the joints, and secure them with 1 1/4″ pocket screws.

A quick tip for clean joints: cut your panel boards slightly long, square up one end on your saw, then flip the panel around and trim the other end to final length. This makes it much easier to get everything flush. Repeat the same process to build the shelf.

Once the panels are assembled, drill 3/4″ pocket holes into all four sides of each side panel and both ends of the shelf — you’ll need these for the next step.

A note from experience: I went overboard on pocket screws in this build — honestly, I could have used half as many, if not fewer, and the panels would have been just as sturdy. If you’re trying to save on screws (or just don’t want to drill more holes than you need to), don’t feel like you have to match every hole I show in the photos.

3. Build the Back Panel and Drawer Front

Drill 3/4″ pocket holes into the boards that make up the back panel and the drawer front. Glue, clamp, and secure both assemblies with 1 1/4″ pocket screws.

4. Assemble the Table Base

This is where the table starts taking shape:

1. Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into your 17 1/2″ 2×2 pieces.
2. Glue and clamp these to the top and bottom edges of the side panels, then secure with 1 1/4″ pocket screws.
3. Attach the legs using wood glue plus 2 1/2″ pocket screws, and 1 1/4″ pocket screws where the panels meet the legs.
4. Attach the front and back stretchers 1 1/2″ up from the bottom of the legs, using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket screws.
5. Glue, clamp, and screw the solid back panel into place with 1 1/4″ pocket screws.

5. Build the Table Top

Rip 6/4 lumber down to 5 1/2″ widths — this gives you the equivalent thickness of standard 1×6 boards. Cut the boards a bit long, glue up the edges, and clamp them together, taking care not to overtighten (over-clamping can cause the top to bow).

Let the glue cure overnight, then trim the top to its final size.

6. Attach the Table Top

Install desktop (tabletop) fasteners — three per side works well for this size. Trace their position with a pencil, then drill a 1/8″-deep hole with a 3/4″ Forstner bit so each fastener sits flush with the base.

Center the top over the base, clamp it in place, and secure it with 1 1/4″ wood screws through each fastener.

7. Build the Drawer Box

Rip your plywood to 7″ wide and cut it to length on the miter saw. Drill 3/4″ pocket holes into the front and back pieces, then glue, clamp, and secure them with 1 1/4″ pocket screws.

Cut 1/4″ plywood to fit the drawer box dimensions and attach it as the drawer bottom using wood glue and 3/4″ narrow crown staples (brad nails work too).

8. Install the Drawer Slides

Rest the drawer slide jig on the bottom stretcher and clamp it in place. Drill 1/16″ pilot holes and attach the slide with the included screws.

Repeat this process on the drawer box itself, centering the slides on each side before drilling and attaching.

9. Attach the Drawer Front

Use a cabinet hardware jig to drill your handle or pull holes into the drawer front only, matching your hardware’s spacing. Center the drawer front over the drawer box — playing cards make great spacers for an even gap all the way around.

Drive 1 1/4″ wood screws through the jig holes into the drawer box to hold it temporarily. Then pull the drawer out, drill pilot holes near all four corners from the inside, and secure the front permanently with 1 1/4″ wood screws. Finish by drilling through your original hardware holes and attaching the handle or pull.

10. Finish the Project

At this point, the build is done — how you finish it is entirely up to you. Leaving it natural lets the wood grain and knots take center stage, while a stain or paint can match it to existing furniture.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to build a DIY side table compared to buying one? A DIY side table with storage typically costs significantly less than a comparable retail piece, since you’re only paying for materials and hardware rather than labor, shipping, and retail markup.

What type of wood works best for a side table build? Knotty alder, pine, oak, and poplar all work well. Alder and pine are budget-friendly and take stain nicely, while oak offers more durability for a slightly higher cost.

Do I need a table saw to build this side table? A table saw makes ripping boards to width much easier, but a circular saw with a straightedge guide can handle the same cuts if that’s what you have on hand.

Can I resize these plans for a different space? Yes — since you’re building it yourself, you can adjust the height, width, and depth to fit your space before cutting any wood.

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